UPDATE - a new ferry company opened up last week (August 2021), and that now makes 4 ferry companies departing from Donggang Ferry Terminal now and one leaving from Yanpu, so Xiaoliqiu is now served by a total of 5 ferry companies. For the most updated ferry schedule, check out this link to my Instagram stories, where I keep the ferry schedule most up to date.
Are you planning a trip to Xiaoliuqiu in Taiwan? Also known as Lamay, Lambai Island, Little Ryuku, and more formally known as Liuqiu Township Pingtung County, this has become a hot place to visit for domestic tourists since the pandemic started (and fingers crossed for opening borders soon).
You've probably got your accommodations sorted, now you just need the ferry times to coordinate your High-Speed Rail or bus ticket into Kaohsiung and transport to Donggang (bus schedule here). Now, how to get from Donggang to the island?
If you haven't booked your accommodation yet, check out our accommodation recommendation list.
Did you know that FIVE ferry companies take you to Xiaoliuqiu? And there is not just one ferry terminal but two ferry terminals to depart from and two ferry terminals in Xiaoliuqiu for your arrival?
It can be a bit confusing. Which is why I wrote this blog.
I am a freedive instructor living in Xiaoliuqiu for the past two years; I've ridden all five ferry companies and taken my scooter around to get the latest ferry schedules and aim to provide you with the best information about how to catch the ferry to Xiaoliuqiu.
Pro tip: if you book in advance, the ferry ticket is usually not issued by time and it is a first come first on the boat thus, booking in advance does not necessarily guarantee you a spot on the ferry at a particular time. So you can either book in advance and feel secure or arrive and decide which ferry company to take. Most guesthouses or hotels on the island can help you book the ferry tickets.
Donggang Township Pingtung County is about a forty-minute drive from Kaohsiung.
Three ferry companies operate from here: Dongliu, Taifu, and the public ferry. At Donggang, one of the advantages of departing or arriving at Donggang is you can eat at the Huaqiao Fish Market near the ferry terminal.
My wife did a YouTube video on Dongang, which features the fish market (it's in Cantonese with English subtitles) where they have amazing sushi and sashimi, so make sure to save time for a visit when you arrive or when you are leaving.
TLDR: the best spot is stall #228 (located in the middle of the market) and the best budget spot is #3.
Located across the mouth of the river and about a 6 minute drive from the Donggang Ferry Terminal according to Google Map, only one ferry company departs from here to Dafu (大幅海運), which is called Dafu Liuqiu Shipping.
The biggest advantage to using this ferry company is if you drive your own car as they provide free parking on the street and a free parking lot about 200m from where you board the ferry. Parking in Donggang can cost $150 a day. So a weekend trip can save you $300.
If you do drive to Donggang, be careful about parking at the parking structure across the street from the fish market, as I've read some awful Google Reviews about that parking lot and staying for more than 1 day.
There are two disadvantages to using this ferry company, but they are easy to overcome.
1) One of the best things about departing from Donggang is you can eat amazing sushi/sashimi at the fish market next door as you wait for your ferry to Xiaoliuqiu or eat on the way back. However, you can easily just drive the 6 minutes here from Yangpu and park across the street in the parking structure (short-term parking should be ok).
2) The boat doesn't dock at the main ferry terminal in Baishawan but Dafu. The advantage of docking at Baishawan is you can easily walk to rent your scooter. However, if you pre-arrange your scooter, the company can pick you up at the pier and take you to their store to rent the scooters.
There are 3 ferry companies that arrive at Baishanwan which is near the main city center of the island, Dongliu, Taifu and Leuco Sapphire. To arrive here is probably more convenient to arrive as it is walking distance to the city center where there are a number of guesthouses, dive shops, souvenir stores and restaurants. This is where I recommend first time visitors to come.
Also within walking distance are a number of shops to rent scooters. If scooters are not your thing, then there is an electric bike rental shop J-Gogo walking distance from here which is a great substitute to scooters in getting around the island of Xiaoliuqiu.
Make sure to visit the beach nearest Baishawan called Zhongao beach as it is one of my favorites beaches on the island.
Dafu Ferry Terminal is located in the middle of the east coast of the island. Some frequent travelers of Xiaoliuqiu take the two ferry companies which dock here, the public ferry and Dafu.
This is more convenient if you are staying nearby, have your own scooter, and/or booked a car to take you to your guesthouse or hotel.
There are two disadvantages of arriving in Dafu. First is if you are renting a scooter, it will be harder here as there is maybe one scooter rental company within walking, distance though you can call ahead for a scooter and they will deliver it to you at Dafu when you arrive.
The second is that it's further from the mainland and so the ferry ride can take about 5-10 minutes longer.
The one big advantage is that the public ferry has BY FAR the latest departure from Donggang at 6:45pm, almost two hours after the other companies' latest departure though they do not operate this ferry slot sometimes so check ahead before you come.
The waters on the way to Xiaoliuqiu is far from completely flat and can get a bit bumpy during the ride over. Sometimes it can get quite a bit more than just a little bumpy, enough to induce seasickness in those sensitive people.
To avoid seasickness, if you are sitting inside, pick a seat in the middle aisle in the middle of the boat and avoid the seats on the 2nd floor of the ferry. Avoid strong smells like perfume or cologne. Some people may not like this because of lack of fresh air, as the fresh air may be enough to moderate the situation.
If fresh air is your thing, you can stand outside in the back of the boat where they keep the scooters and look out at the horizon. Be careful as you can get quite wet with ocean water splashing into the boat.
You may also want to consider taking over-the-counter medication for motion sickness before you board.
Once you are on the island, you can refer to the Facebook group Xiaoliuqiu for Foreigners or my Goole Maps list for Xiaoliuqiu for recommendations on places to eat and do.
Want to stay with "locals" who speak English? Then check out our shared home here.
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